Embsay, England (Where the hell is that?)

Embsay. Amazingly, this small town (marked only by a TINY shrub-obscured sign) has a Wikipedia entry. Wikipedia explains that Embsay has its own cricket team and a pub on each end of town. At one of those pubs—the Elm Tree Inn—we enjoyed a local brew and our first taste of countryside cooking.  But where the hell IS Embsay?  It's in North Yorkshire, England--practically half way between London (4.5 hours from Embsay) and Edinburgh (about 3 hours from Embsay).

This church was the halfway point in our walk between our B&B and the Elm Tree Inn. Looking gentle and quaint as we passed it on the way to dinner, it took on different air on our way back later that evening.

At Bondcroft Bed and Breakfast, owner Bobby gives us a special treat--letting us watch as he works his champion herding dogs.

A Look Inside Chillingham Castle, NORTHUMBERLAND, ENGLAND

Chillingham Castle began its history as a monastery in the late 12th century. Its location between two feuding nations made its peaceful purpose a short-lived one. It was used as a staging post for English armies entering Scotland, and was repeatedly attacked by Scottish armies and raiding parties. Fast forward past many kings who used and stayed at the castle (most notably, King Edward on his way to battle William Wallace as well as James I, the first king of both England and Scotland)—to WW II. During WW II, the castle became army barracks.  It is now owned by Sir Humphry, who has tended to its restoration and care.

The Great Hall. This room (below) was built for the royal visit of James I of Scotland. The walls are garnished with weapons and trophies from around the world

The James I Room (below). Named in honor of the King’s Royal visit to Chillingham in 1603, this room is brilliantly furnished with Sir Humphrey's copies of antique originals. It is famous for its Elizabethan ceiling of gilded ribbing and walls lined with patterned silk. This fine Elizabethan room was one of three, adjacent to each other, where the King would receive his guests. King Charles I, only some weeks before his execution, stayed here for three days.

Edward I Room (below). King Edward stayed here on his way to the successful capture of William Wallace (Brave Heart). This room, which has been restored to its 13th century format, is the most ancient stateroom in the castle.

The Plaque Room (below). Named for the fine plasterwork plaque dedicated to the Grey family (above the fireplace), this room has many photographs of visitors to the castle and a collection of books that relate to Sir Humphry’s family.

The Chapel (below). Once a library, the family now uses this for private religious services. Supposedly, two unidentified skeletons were found beneath the floor boards.

Gardens. This 1828 garden is the work of royal garden designer Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, who also constructed the gardens at Windsor Castle. The herbaceous border is the longest in Northern England.

What reputable haunted castle would be caught dead without a proper torture chamber?